I see where your coming from but it may be a bit more tricky due to different regs in different countries. For example, I doubt whether the UK USA and other parts of asia and europe use the same emission controls. I notice my manual refers to EURO III standard, but that wont be the same as China or US or other parts of Asia.
I think only basic engine parts and body parts are the same. One difference i notice is the lights switches are different in different places depending on whether the local laws require you to have your headlights on while engine is running. I think they do this in USA (or at least in California they seem to). USA also has a switch to allow hazard lights. I don't have any hazard light switch. So it may not just be year differences but also country of origin differences.

There is a company called Elstars who mainly specialize in dirt bikes but have parts that fit our bikes. They are at this lnk:

http://www.elstars.com.au/products/contact_us.html

Seeing u live in a cool/cold climate and u mention the battery charge light flickering, i'de be looking at the battery as the problem before u replace all the ignition parts. Put a multimeter across the batt terms (ign off) and check volts at least 12volt. If any lower I don't think u have a charged battery and maybe not enough volts to trigger the electronic ignition. Also, check the wiring connector to the rectifier under the seat. I accidentally dislodged it and at idle the charge light stayed on and only went out at high revs. It turned out the wiring connector needed to be pressed home and all was ok. That connector is not real tight on my bike, so I slightly bent the tabs to give it a firmer fit.

Also use the choke to start up. If its cold weather, pull it out half way to full when starting.

Check the oil level isn't too high in the sight glass. You can't check oil level with bike on the side stand, you have to pull it up dead vertical. A lot of riders seem to have overfilled the engine. It only takes a bit over 1 litre. Other bike manufacturers of this engine capacity must have bigger sumps and riders are just tipping more oil in the Zong than it needs.

Check your spark plug and gap. It is type D8EA or DR8EA gapped to 0.6-0.7mm. The gap on mine is critical for smooth idle.
 
I just googled "Zong uk parts" for spares and the first one that comes up is :  http://www.china-parts.co.uk/    ...They seem to have all the parts in their online catalogue including cdi /coil etc. Have u tried them?

When you check the posts that have been read, there are plenty of people reading the posts. Some topics have 5 or 6 hundred times read. So people are using this forum all the time. The problem i have with china-moto is it is light on information but heavy on ads. And as u mention, there is nothing on the Zong to be read-apart from your post.
I'll stick to this forum while its here, but I'll check back on China -moto from time to time. I prefer to have the dedicated Zong forum that way I only read topics related to the Zong and not all the other China bikes of which there are hundreds.

Seeing you dont yet know if u have a 200cc or 250cc engine i cant give u much info re your engine, but as i understand the 200cc came on earlier bikes and is a single pot 200cc OHV pushrod type engine. The 250cc (230cc) is also single pot but has OHC valve operation and is a bit more powerful.

The oil type for the 250cc is 15w40SF. I think the 200cc is the same. Dont use friction modified oil such as cars use or u will end up with a slipping clutch and need a complete engine cleanout and may also burn out the clutch system.

Gas should be ULP standard type. 90oct sounds like what we call standard.

 The Owner Manual for mine was under the seat. Remove the couple of screws and check there. THere was also a few tools in a bag under the seat.

The bogging sounds like you might have your choke out from reading your other post. After a minute of riding push the choke lever flat to the dash. Too much fuel and not enough air can cause your prob with runnng. Thats what the choke does. Its only for cold engine start. 

wait... so i also have to clean the filter?? because all i did was add new oil,, and i took a spin around the block and so far so good.

this is the oil i changed it too

one on right  




PS HAPPY THANKS GIVING!!

Happy Thanks Giving to you too.

yeah thats a good oil. I used that too. Your bike has no miles when you bought it-if its genune. If the bike was sitting around for a while not being used, I would put a inline fuel filter in it and check for any rust inside the tank. You might be able to do that by waiting til the fuel is almost empty then shine a torch down the filler hole. The tank can rust up if left sitting with no fuel in it for a long time. With this low a mileage after nearly 3 yrs it may be just a new set of dash guages but from your pic, the bike does  look pretty new.

As for the oil filter. The manual says to change it at the 1st service (300mile) so maybe wait til then. At the first service youll probably find there is a fair bit of gunk on the filter cartridge so I would change it then and do a complete oil change as wel. If you want to check inside the filter now, then just let it cool down over night then remove the cover like I mentioned and have a look. You wont lose much/any oil that way. Best to put a tray under the bike though just in case any oil spills out onto your (by now) clean driveway!!

Cheers   

As for the smell of burning, other members with new bikes have reported the same smell. eg check this reply from another member, http://zongshenforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=44.msg642;topicseen#msg642

In regard to the "bogging", how high engine revs are you doing? The user manual suggests keeping revs low during first 300miles or so. I wouldn't thrash just yet with the miles you've done. Keep the revs below 5 thousand and top speed below 50mph. The engine is still tight during the first 300mile and will be running hot. The manual tells you how to run the bike in so its best to follow the design engineers run-in procedure.

You might check the carby air cleaner is not too oiled up. Mine was. The carby could be cause of backfire, so probably best to take it back to dealer to fix. Some of the dealer's aren't preparing the bikes to a very good standard. While you're at it get the chain tension checked as well in case it's too tight or slack. It won't be the cause of your problems but get it checked any way.

It sounds like the oil level is a bit too high but if it disappears off the sight glass when on the stand then its not too much over. But it should be between the Low and High marks.  You could check the plug type and gap are correct as they can cause missfiring. Take the plug out when the engines cool and check gap as per manual. If you haven't noticed, the manual is hidden under the seat.

At this stage and while the bike is under warranty you will be best to avoid modifying the bike in any way, so I wouldn't be touching the anti pollution stuff. There are probably tens of thousands of these bikes all over the world and only a handful of riders have modded them. My advice is don't touch anything unless you know what you're doing and are prepared to risk voiding your warranty.

bike is fixed and running well now,  cleaned tank with baking soda and electrolysis ( connectec battery and floated coat hangar) cleaned filters on bith sides of engine, added breather,. about speeds i run my bike 1) i am only 140 lbs and 2) i have casoli no rev limit cdi and ss coil, and raptor carb.3) i live in south fla the atmospheric pressure here allows me to run more fuel and higher speeds with my jet and airflow setup. my valves are beautiful and that wouldnt cause bog down,anyway. somewhere the mixture was being thrown off i believe it was the rust in my tank and a filthy filter on right side of engine. im back to haulin ass i did 80 all the way to pompano and it was cold last night so i had throttle left to spare.

Yeh the rust would definitely clog your carb. But its good youve sorted that one out now. I think the best thing to do there is put an inline filter before the carb as suggested by MS Rider. I think i'll do the same just to be safe. I have a 2 yr old bike with about 6000 mile on the clock. After reading your post I checjked my tank but no sign of rust in mine  (yet).     

One possibility I notice though is after filling with gas it pays to press the fuel cap down an extra click just to be sure its sealing properly. Otherwise it could be that while riding in the wet or parked outside in the rain, a bit of water could get down under the filler cap and enter the tank via the fuel vent hole.