I know of one guy on here who posted about putting a raptor(2 cylinder atv i think) carb on his bike, but i asked for more details and never got a response...  I am trying to jet right now but i cant ride now 'cause its been rainin. If I find something that works, i'll post it here.

So im going with regulator rectifier, and i dont feel like testing it cuz i dont know how.  I already inspected the stator, and it looked to be in tact and pretty well magnetized, but again, i dont know for sure.  The symptoms seem to lead to the rectifier though.  When i bought it, the seller used his turbo diesel pickup to "jump start" the bike, i imagine that could have done damage to this low er wattage, lower voltage system.  I think i heard somewhere that you should never use a car to jump start a motorcycle battery.

That jet sizing sounds like you're getting way too big for the mods you've done so far. Those mods probably mean you only want to go up one or two jet sizes to get best fuel/air mix.  I think the Teikei jets go up in size from 132 to 135 to 138. In theory I think a 138 would be max to try. Though the 150 you used may not be a Teikei jet, in which case the sizing rule doesn't apply. The problem is that jets by other carb manufacturers don't correspond to our jet sizes exactly and the thread pitch can be slightly different,( but theywill fit at a pinch).  For example, MIkuni carbs jet #132 won't be the same as a Teikei #132. A TEikei #150 jet though is about 5 or 6 sizes up from the stock 132.

Anyway,  sigma should be the best ones to sort this out as I haven't tried rejetting yet. Hope you can get it all sorted soon.

 I see, well the jets deffinately dont resemble the factory jets, but they fit.  They could be some of those relpacements you mentioned.  The stamp has an AB on top and the size on bottom.  Why would the larger jet cause this leaner condition, i thought a larger main jet made your mixture richer? And if i deffinately felt an improvement overall using the 150, should i not then keep climbing?  As any jets i order should be free, i will order based on your advice, its far better than my own... I should probably also mention that the new jets seem to sit lower in the bowl.  however at Sigma's tech's sugestion i raised the floatbowl level.  I subsequently fouled an iridium plug, but other than that it seems to run better, when it's rich the ride seems much smoother, less jumy. What do you think???

Thanks for the link, and the info, i will check my rectifier, it could be bad, i've never unplugged it, so im pretty sure thats not the case.  I just finished installing my HID and HOLY HELL what a difference.  I have visibility, lol.  best 50 i've spent on my bike so far.  It doesnt turn my switch to a blackout though, instead it's got a seperate bulb for low which seems to be halogen and puts out about as much light as the old setup did.  I'm happy with that, but i'm still having to charge my battery.  Right now, i am also trying to get my jetting right which has proven to be pretty damn difficult...

I'm starting to think you need to leave these things plugged in whenever they're not in use, even if you ride daily. The battery seems to only accept a trickle charge which doesnt seem to be enough to keep up with the bike. I am using the battery light to guage and it seems that at idle there is no battery charging going on (battery light flashing becomes more frequent) especially if the brake light is on.  At about 4000 RPM it seems that a trickle charge starts (this is about where the red light turns off).  The problem is if you start with anything less than a full charge it will take about an hour if not more of engine reving at 4000 to get that battery anywhere near a full charge.  Anything less than a half hour ride will render your bike uncrankable.  Also, i would imagine since i havent done it yet that a very long stop and go ride, say in rush hour traffic would put a serious drain on the battery since most of your time would be spent under that 4000 mark.  I dont know much about stators and rectifiers but i would imagine there is some sort of tuning or upgrade i can do to remedy this issue.  I hate wire testing, but it looks like i might have to bring out the old voltometer eh?  Any advice or similar symptoms please reply.

PS if i didnt live on the second floor, it wouldnt be such an issue, but its difficult to find a spot to plug my bike in every time i park, i usualy have to wait till night to steal some 1st floor power.

PPS I also am in talks with a local HID provider to get an HID which i beleive the install turns your high beam switch to a "no beam switch" which should help my battery out durring the day anyway.

if anyone has any spare jets for the 250 gs i need pics to send to sigma6 for matching and i dont want to pull my carb apart since i just got it running decent.  Anyone? anyone?

The reason i moved it up in the first place is cuz it was flooding when i crank without even using choke, but that was before i adjusted the floatbowl so i'll give it a shot.

i'm also reading about mods in which you drill a second hole in the slide to increase throttle response.  Also a spring cutting mod, to the same effect.  Would you recomend any such upgrade.  I also sent a message to sigma 6 on ebay who offers a jet kit for our bikes. It includes instructions for both of those mods as well as new jets. They say they will allow me to test them and send em back for different ones if they dont run right.  So i'm thinking about paying the $58.00, not that i have it to spend right now...  

It's deffinately lean though, i can feel it in the higher gears much more for some reason.  It runs through first second and third strong, but once i hit 5th it's starved, and if i give it WOT, it ends up stalling when i let it go.  So first thing in the morning, i'll move it back to the 3rd position, and then go down from there.  What is a tell tale sign that i'm way too rich? backfires right?