What does it take for you to start your bike? (+bonus q)

[Marc]

Do you pull the choke out? Do you have to give it gas?

For me, if it's a little cold outside (50 degrees or so) I definitely HAVE to have the choke pulled out to even think about starting it. Even then, I have to give it throttle and hold it for a little bit until it's warmed up enough or it will shut off. But even when it's warm out, I have to pull the choke out and give it throttle to start. I guess I'm kind of wondering if that's normal or if I should just be able to push the ignition button without doing anything else. I can start the bike without the choke pulled out, but I have to give it more throttle and kind of hold it for a bit until once again it gets warmed up. So what's it like for you guys?


Bonus question!! Should I re-tune the carb since I'm in the mountains? (4700 ft. elevation) and if so, how do I go about doing that. I looked on the carb for a screw or something and ended up messing up the idle instead. Which way to I turn the screw (wherever it is) to add more fuel or less fuel? Thanks!

[motorstar rider]

during cold weather starts specially in the morning, using the choke is very normal, pull it out and give it a little gas and w/in a minute should idle smoothly on its own.  i live also in the mountains and after doing some research about carbs, we are using cv (constant velocity) carbs, and one advatage of it over slide carbs is, its not affected by elevation (bonus answer). on the left side you'll see just on screw head, w/ engine fully warm close it clockwise until engine just begin to die then back out ccw w/ 1/4 turns until u hear the highest idle

[tinn-can]

Mine has had trouble starting after it has been running for a while like when I go to lunch or something it will take a minute or two to start making me look kinds stupid as I sit there cranking every few seconds...

[xanthmo]

Mine starts pretty easily, unless it has been sitting for a few weeks, in that case it takes a minute or two of idling until it smooths.  

I do have a huge power lag if I try to take off to early after starting the bike, but it usually only lasts a few minutes.

[kf4ewo]

Been a way for a while but replacing my wife plug with a NGK iridium DR8EIX #6681 spark plug has made a world of difference in starting her bike.

Old plug - Choke for one minute, idle for another 2, and then hesitation for the first couple of miles untel fully warm. restarts while warm would take quite a while if it did not sit for about 5 minutes after shutting off.

New plug - Choke for about 10 seconds, idle for about 30, then ride. Temp here when made the change was 70's in the mornings, now in the low 50's and no change in starting. I belive the new plug and 93 octain gas avalible around here has a lot to do with how well it does.

Replaced the battery about a week ago and seems to fire a lot faster when starting and idles a lot smoother while cold. Battery is from Sears, a 9-b (sears part number 44356). Also added a battery tender for the winter months to keep battery from draining.

My dad alway told me growing up never to adjust you carb for elevation until you were going above 8000 feet. This is based on 1950's to 1970's carb cars and trucks, but it is only what I was taught while growing up.

Hope the info helps.

KF4EWO

[Myth]

Nice info kf4ewo.  Replacing the wife plug...  Where do you locate this wife plug???  :lol:

Did you have adajust the gap on the new plug?  I've got a couple of NGK's but they're not iridium, what's the real benifit of going iridium?

When I start my bike if I take of too soon it'll kind of sputter or miss...  If I let it warm up enough it'll be okay and this problem only happens at low RPM's.  So it really only affects me in taking off.  But by the time I make it to a red light, it's warmed up enough to eliminate the issue.

[kf4ewo]

Got it at the local Napa autoparts store. They had to request it from another store which had it in stock, I didn't want to drive across town to pick it up. NGK web site recomends not adjusting the gap sence the inner tip is very small and breaking is quite easy. Even the clerk at the Napa recomended not changing the gap.

Not realy shure of the benifits except that its saposed to reach opperating temp quicker to keep from fouling and maybe last longer. Most of the people I have talked to about them say the last just as long as any other better quality plug. NGK web site has some more info on the iridium and the reasons for them to be better.

Went for a 45 mile ride this morning with one stop for about two hours at 16 miles (her on her GS250 and me on my honda), got home and pulled it to check color and looks perfect if you go by any of the plug charts. Have to admit it has made a huge difference on how her bike starts and runs, especialy first starting out in the mornings. Still gets a little bit of hesitation if she gets on the throtle hard for the first quarter mile but other than that it has mad a big differance in starting and running in genneral. This morning at 68 deg. she gave it only 5 seconds of choke to start it and kept throtle up around 5000 rpms for another 15 seconds with choke off, then let off and idled perfect from cold start.

Hope it helps.
Kf4ewo

[Namikuz]

And for the BONUS question, I live in Salt Lake City, I moved the needle to the point that the needle extends deepest in the jet,I had to adjust the co./idle mixture screw and idle speed, I picked up 8 mpg and better accelleration. I've had the speedo to 85. (I'm 6'2" and 205. Before I could only get to ~75 on the speedo)

[drummerben]

And for the BONUS question, I live in Salt Lake City, I moved the needle to the point that the needle extends deepest in the jet,I had to adjust the co./idle mixture screw and idle speed, I picked up 8 mpg and better accelleration. I've had the speedo to 85. (I'm 6'2" and 205. Before I could only get to ~75 on the speedo)

How do you adjust the clip on the needle?

[Namikuz]

And for the BONUS question, I live in Salt Lake City, I moved the needle to the point that the needle extends deepest in the jet,I had to adjust the co./idle mixture screw and idle speed, I picked up 8 mpg and better accelleration. I've had the speedo to 85. (I'm 6'2" and 205. Before I could only get to ~75 on the speedo)

How do you adjust the clip on the needle?

Sorry for the LATE reply,
To lower the needle, you need to remove the carb from the intake and air box, then remove the 4 screws on the black cover on top of the carb, to access the carb slide, THEN you DO NOT LOOSE the spring under the black cover that you just removed. Push the slide out of the carb, the rubber diaphram will come with it, THEN GENTLY push the needle out of the slide, CAREFUL!!! there is a tiny spring under the little white cap snapped in to the top bore of the carb slide. Then you can remove the "E" clip from the needle and place where you would like. Reverse proceedure to reassemble. Mine was as high as possible when I pulled it. (Most of this will make sence as you do it. The little white cap and tiny spring in the slide, top bore, will snap back in place, BUT make sure it is SNAPPED in place or it WILL pop out and you'll do it ALL OVER AGAIN!!!!)
There ya have it!!

[Myth]

Bad ass info Zuki!  I knew I was going to like having you around!

So would you recommend doing this procedure on all Zong's, or is there something someone should look for prior t odoing this???

[Namikuz]

Bad ass info Zuki!  I knew I was going to like having you around!

So would you recommend doing this procedure on all Zong's, or is there something someone should look for prior t odoing this???

I haven't riden a ZS near sea level so I can't comment on how it is set up.  I did this because S.L.C. is ~ 5k above sea level and the air quallity here is poor, so its more like 6800 ft. It was running really rich here. If you are lower than 2k, I'de not worry about it too much. I'm not sure you would gain anything noticable in mpg or performance( that would be worth doing it). Now if you put on an exhaust and an open element air filter(k/n pod) you will HAVE to re jet/set the carb.
I am , however, going to extend the crank vent away from the air intake tract by the carb and put it in a small upward facing can inside the airboxe's backside. The small can will have a perferated top and steel mesh in it, to act as a baffel, and allow oil to accumulate at high speeds(well for the ZS) and drain back into the engine at lower speeds. This WILL stop it from EVER hydro-locking again (by SUCKING OIL FROM THE CRANK CASE!!!!!)  I've seen a few thing that I'm going to change on the ZS. I will report on EVERY detail(pics too) as I go along.
Bye